Even with that precaution there were of course mistakes. This is important! It should be vertical to the front panel and coincide with the speaker axis. Mount the driver, the input cup or binding posts, wire it up and give it a listen. They are good for fairly large rooms where you can spread them 8 to 10 foot apart and 3 foot away from the wall or more. The black line is the combined output, the red line is the driver output and the blue line is the port output. I put a few nails inside the pipe to hold the stuffing in there. cone mod Much has been said in the past about adding foam between the wizzer and the main cone.....nothing new here..... except I didn't use foam. The final design utilizes two 8” PVC pipes for the RS180S-8 7″ Aluminum Woofers. This procedure should provide a deep and tight bass with a pretty even response. I used the precision port. I found the driver to like an empty box. In hind sight I would have been better served to learn on something other than Lacewood. To get a smooth furniture finish the varnished cabinet must sit for 72 hours, after which I will lightly sand it with #220 paper and apply one final coat. Put the cut off piece between two new shelves, square the edges and clamp both ends. Why? Between stuffing, port tube length, and baffle step correction circuits you should be able to hit the sweet spot. I decided to line the cabined with vinyl tile to quiet the panels. Parts List: 4'x8' (3/4" thickness) Birch hardwood sheet (around A-B grade): $42.00, Home Depot Two 5.25" midbasses, 50W each: $8.00 (clearance), Parts Express Two sets of Gold binding posts: ~$2 each, Parts Express 2.4lbs of Acousta Stuf: ~$15, Parts Express 7 feet of 2x14gauge copper speaker wire: ~$4 Parts Express Half-tube of Liquid Nails: ~$1, Hardware storeHalf-tube of Alex Plus caulk: ~$1, Hardware store Two piece of Dynamat: ~$2, Parts Express Eight self-stick rubber feet: ~$3, Radio Shack Total estimate: $85.00. King. Careful with the thin ends of the triangles! Some day I might carefully add a little tweeter using a film cap to couple it in, just to see if I really miss it. The RS drivers put out a lot. No more admonitions to check the alignment. A little easier to construct and more stable too. Save the scrap piece. The Voigt pipe was designed in 1934 by Paul G. A. H. Voigt and is also referred to as a tapered quarter-wave pipe (TQWP) or tapered quarter-wave tube (TQWT). Mask all of the edges and the baffle that will be glued later. I figure they may have some clue about this that I don't have. I built this page as I went along. The Voigt Pipes are significantly more efficient and the bass is almost unbelievable thunderous and follows the played tone accurate without preferring certain resonances. Flip the board end for end and repeat the procedure. 12" x 12" vinyl floor tiles. This hobby is subjective ... there is no perfect. SURPLUS ELECTRONIC PARTS & EQUIPMENT, MILITARY ITEMS, POST OFFICE LOCK BOX FRONTS, Electronics surplus - 900 Page Computer and Surplus Electronics On-Line Catalog, UL1213, Type E, M22759, M16878, M27500, Type EE, UL wire, Fry's Home Electronics | Computer Parts & Accessories, Software, Games, TVs, Cameras - Frys.com, Distributor of Electronic Components - Radar Inc, RadiolaGuy.com : antique radios for sale : vintage radios for sale : vintage televisions for sale, Andy Rondeau's Do-It-Yourself (DIY) Speaker Project, Adventure with Voigt Pipes by Herbert Jeschke, Another Voigt Pipe - with the Fostex FE207 by Dan Dicker, Fostex FE164 Mass Loaded Tapered Quarter Wave Tube (ML TQWT) by Martin J. What's next? The boxes sounded great, very fast and accurate, clear and happy without discoloration that I could hear. I ended up having to bend one side of the hurricane nut up 90 degrees to get the driver into the hole. Like so much in this hobby - less is more - to quote that often spoken cliche. Next time I will go ahead and press like a son-of ... a-bitch and leave the last 4 inches or so just pressed down with just my fingers then Invest in a hand held router with a veneer trim bit (thanks to Steve). Both sets were driven by the same amp using its A/B switches. I already had two 5" drivers that I hoped would do the job. I heard details in music I had never heard before. They are not full range drivers and I have no idea what their Qts is. Due to its relatively high efficiency the design is frequently employed in full-range loudspeaker designs. The lower part of the pipe acts as a horn while the top can be visualized as an extended compression chamber. I did some searching on the internet and found some instructions for TNT Stubbies, but they were a bit smaller than I needed, so I scaled the design up to meet my needs. The RS28A-4 1-1/8″ Aluminum Dome Tweeters are mounted in 4” PVC tubes that reduce down to a 2” curved pipe. Just tap with your fingers until you find the void, cut an X with your utility Knife stick the router bit in the hole, turn it on, drag it to the side and around you go. The pipe resonance will likely be somewhat higher than that. Mechanical failure can occur when the drive signal demands movement from the speaker coil that exceeds the design … Screw the cabinet together. One pipe with its unfinished speaker mounting baffle and port baffle set in place to check fit. I countersunk and tapped before screwing the panels together, gluing the joints when I was happy with the fit up. I need a sub for the lower frequencies. The back panel should be miter-cut to fit the 7 degree angle with which it meets the bottom plate but I left it square cut and filled in the gap with silicon caulking. I was bent on building both pipes from one sheet, so mine are only 7.5" wide and 9.5" deep (I wanted to preserve the 7 degree angle that Jeschke used). My guess is there's a glob of caulk stuck to the top of the box stalactite style. I did not change anything in 4 weeks. High sensitivity / efficiency. Also, the primer will not level, so there will be massive brush marks in the dried primer. I want to get a subwoofer so I can high-pass filter the Voigt pipes around 60Hz. So I drilled a pilot hole, stuck in the cutting bit and proceeded to drag the router around the circle I had drawn. An example of a MTM bookshelf speaker speaker design appears below from Zalytron. How to build a speaker using PVC pipe and a 5 inch woofer and tweeter. I also fiddled around A LOT with the length of the port tube (both in the math cad software and in the actual box) and found that NO extension sounded best to me. One can argue that this design could use some bracing. Gently roll the side-back-scrap assembly on its side. I have gotten used to the level of bass they produce: I think it's not that they are weak, but that I am used to listening to bass a few dB louder than it should be in my car (need to combat road and wind noise by increasing bass). Don't even think of going for the glue bottle until everything dry-fits together properly. The original web site that caught my interest in this do-it-yourself speaker design has long since disappeared, though its influence is considerable (if the number of references to it by other people are any guide). TQWT and QWT stands for (tappered) quarter wave tube and are also refered as Voight Pipes. The concept is an economical speaker based on a waveguide and efficient pro midbass. The angle on the side pieces for the back was hard to cut, even when I later used my neighbor's table saw. We can provide you with comprehensive Subwoofer Box Design Software for creating a high performance bass box. The bottom plate butts against the four previous panels. The TQWT is really good at a few things. The results are: It's over-damped! Stuffing: As you might have guessed, I used more than the standard amount of stuffing. The driver is usually positioned close to the middle of the baffle or slightly lower. I spent countless hours cruising web pages in search for a project that had suitable specs. Surplus Electronic Parts, Tubes, Equipment, Technical Manuals Misc. TC120TD5+two7W4411 MTM vented.pdf However, it is EXTREMELY important that the stuffing does not extend more than 2" below the driver, or bass extension is rapidly lost. By it's shape TQWT is a conical horn with relatively high cutoff frequency. Check revisited edition of TQWT on Lowther Holland page, where another driver is added to cure uneven response of a single driver TQWT. When I found the design of the Voigt Pipe at the site of the Lowther Club of Norway I was taken by the simplicity of it and the fact that it uses a single driver, much like a point source that would mirror the microphone that originally recorded the music of acoustical instruments. TQWT and QWT stands for (tappered) quarter wave tube and are also refered as Voight Pipes. It is beveled toward the inside because sound doesn't like sharp edges. Metal primer will be worse than useless. Place that piece of scrap you saved from cutting the back panel :-) between the sides near the bottom. Universal tuning that fits most subwoofers - 36 Hz. Nice, no? You will need silicon caulking at the top as well where the front and back meet at a sharp angle. Support the back at the cut lines on the sides with C-clamps. These are the best-sounding speakers I've owned, every recording comes to life! Cut the back to length plus 1/4" extra. If this is well calculated such enclosure will deal well with the resonanes, having a much flatter impedance curve and a fairly flat frequency response. This is then wrapped around the space between the two cones and with careful teasing and intertwining of the fibers through each other, can be made to stay in place. I used tung oil but I think Lacewood wants a high gloss ... with less than perfect sanding to start due to the grain and lots of coats with sanding between. In order to lower it's output lining and stuffing must be used. Spray the color coat. I'll try that next time. Screw it to the baffle for alignment, but try to keep glue out of the top/baffle joint at this time. I can only guess that any remaining sound waves that may have been reflected back up the Pipe are damped by this. (I haven't tried them with SACD.) I thought that might help to fill in the void I sometimes sense in the middle of a stereo pair too far apart. (This is the approach used in the Bose Wave Radio.) 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